Florida - It's Not All About Disney!


Ok, maybe it’s a little bit about Disney, but there is so much more to the Sunshine State of Florida than the playgrounds for little and big kids alike. In five weeks time, I will be heading back to the land famous for its orange juice once again, this time to Tampa for my best friend’s wedding. In 2009, the last time I was in Florida, she treated me to an American style road trip around the entire state and it was easy to see how much there is to offer tourists outside of its world renowned theme parks.

That said, I must confess, I am a massive fan of Disney and of theme parks in general and so of course, this was on the to do list during my time in Florida. It would be amiss of me to consider writing about Florida and not talk about the wonders that await everyone in Orlando and particularly at Disney World. But there is so much to say about that one little place in the United States that it really deserves a whole article of its own, which it will get, believe me! However, no matter your age, if you are in Florida and have time to peel yourself away from the magic of Orlando, read on to find out what other treats the Sunshine State has in store for you!


Our road trip around Florida began in Tampa as that’s where I flew into before we headed to Orlando for a week of magic and rollercoasters. But I really do have to start in Tampa anyway while I am on the subject of the great theme parks that Florida has to offer the world. Yes, Orlando may be home to greatest theme park franchise in the world and it’s close second, Universal Studios, but Tampa has a theme park of its own to offer and it’s only an hour and a half’s drive from Orlando. Owned by the same company that runs SeaWorld and its affiliate parks, Busch Gardens is 335 acres of Africa on American soil. This theme park is one of America’s largest zoological institutions and home to more almost 3,000 animals. The theme is wild and so are its rides.

Busch Gardens

Essentially, Busch Gardens is a safari park with amazing rollercoasters. If you are travelling with kids, there is plenty for them to do here if they are too young to enjoy the rides. The animals here are a key theme. The Cheetah Run, the abandoned fishing village on the Edge of Africa, wild animal encounters at Jungala and the Serengeti Railway will keep the entertained and there are also a few child friendly rides to enjoy such as the Skyride, the junior coasters, Air Grover and SandSerpent. But if you’re a big kid like me, it’s the thrill spilling, jaw dropping, adrenaline pumping rides you will want to head for.

Busch Gardens Rollercoaster

SheiKra takes you 200 feet into the air and drops you at a 90 degree angle. Kumba, voted one of the world’s best rollercoasters will drop you 135 feet before racing you into one of the world’s largest vertical loops leaving you to experience absolute weightlessness for 3 seconds. Montu was the first coaster in the world to incorporate a simultaneous loop and roll and has seven inversions to enjoy. Of course there are water rides such as the Congo River Rapids to enjoy too!

Day tickets are currently $79 but combination tickets are available if you wish to visit any affiliate parks as well.

What else does Tampa have to offer those who have wandered from Orlando? The TECO Tampa Electric Manatee Viewing Centre has an interesting backstory. The Big Bend Power Station in Apollo Beach delivers electric to Tampa and in 1986 people began to spot manatees in large numbers in the power station’s discharge canal where saltwater taken from Tampa Bay flows clean and warm back into the bay after cooling one of their units. Manatees would seek out this water to keep warm in colder weather. Today, the discharge canal is a state and federally designated manatee sanctuary that provides the manatees with protection from the cold. Inside you can learn about how the Big Bend Power Station works and you can learn all about manatees before taking the half mile hike to the viewing tower to try and spot them yourselves.

Manatees in Tampa

Lettuce Lake Park situated just outside Tampa features several boardwalks that wind through a variety of Florida ecosystems from a fresh water wetland to a hardwood forest. You can also enjoy the Audubon Resource Centre there for their natural history and wildlife exhibits. Big Cat Rescue is one of the world's largest accredited sanctuaries for exotic cats, fighting to end the abuse of captive big cats and to end extinction. You can visit the cats and all of the tours are guided and educational, you can take a day tour at a cost of $36, the kids tour for under 10s is $19, but there are other experiences on offer such as the feeding tour and the keeper tour. If you are travelling with children, the Florida Aquarium is in Tampa and if you need to cool off, Adventure Island makes for a good water park day out, though I’m not sure it would rival what you can get in Orlando.

Rain in Tampa

The weather wasn’t great for us when we were in Tampa and we ended up visiting Busch Gardens at the end of our road trip instead (hence the sun in the photos), so we actually headed to MOSI, the Museum of Science and Industry, which was a fantastic half day out. MOSI has more than 450 interactive exhibits on space, astronomy, technology, robotics, gaming and more. As science evolves, so does MOSI, but exhibitions on show at the moment include Dinosaurs in Motion, 3D Printing the Future and Space Programs. General admission is $26.95 or $20.95 for children.

St Augustine

This city in northeastern Florida is about an hour and 45 minutes from Orlando and is the oldest continuously occupied European-established settlement in the United States. It was founded in 1565 by Spanish admiral and Florida’s first governor, Pedro Menéndez de Avilés and he named the settlement “San Agustin”. The city was the capital of Spanish Florida for over 200 years and was later the capital of the Florida territory until Tallahassee was made the capital in 1824. As the New World, we know that America cannot compare historically to the many European destinations we have access to today, but by US standards, St Augustine has a distinct historical character and has as a result, become a major tourist attraction in Florida.

Castillo de San Marcos, St Augustine

There are many points of interest in St Augustine to enjoy if you have a few days to explore, such as the Spanish Military Hospital Museum, the St Francis Barracks, the Oldest Wooden Schoolhouse in the US and the Colonial Quarter from the Spanish era. We were just stopping through and headed straight for the structure that dominates the coast line of the city, the Castillo de San Marcos. It’s the oldest masonry fort in the continental United States and sits on the western shore of Matanzas Bay. Construction began in 1672 but wasn’t completed until 1795. Possession of the fort has changed peacefully six times, twice by Spain, twice by the US and once each by the UK, Spain and the Confederate States of America. Under the control of the United States, the fort was used as a military prison to incarcerate members of various Native American tribes starting with the Seminole and members of various western tribes including Geronimo’s band of Chiricahua Apache.

St Augustine Castillo Costume

It was an interesting visit and quite informative. It certainly teaches you a lot about the relationships between the US and the Native Americans. We also got a fun cannon introduction and firing from a man wearing a colonial costume and wig too, which was very in keeping with British type of fun days out. But we soon moved on to one of the other popular tourist attractions in St Augustine, the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park, which has been labelled the 1513 Florida landing point of Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon, who was an explorer on the search for the infamous Fountain of Youth. St Augustine’s Fountain of Youth Archeological Park contains an artesian well which Ponce de Leon believed contained water that would supposedly restore the youth of anyone who drank or bathed in the water.

I can firmly attest that this is, as suspected, just a legend. We both drank from it and youth was sadly not restored, though I only speak for myself of course! The gardens here are beautiful though and we were lucky enough to encounter a stunning white peacock.

Daytona Beach

A mecca for motorsports, Daytona Beach is the headquarters for NASCAR, the ultimate business for auto-racing sports events. This part of Florida is not called the ‘Fun Coast’ for nothing! Daytona Beach is historically known for its hard-packed sand which allows motorised vehicles to drive on the beach in restricted areas. Replaced in 1959 by the Daytona International Speedway, the old Daytona Beach Road Course hosted races for over 50 years. The most prolific time to visit Daytona Beach is early February, when over 200,000 NASCAR fans descend upon the city for the season opening of the Daytona 500. Other races worth a visit include the NASCAR Coke Zero 500 race in July, Bike Week in March and Biketoberfest in October.


Daytona Beach is also a cultural hub though, with many interesting museums to enjoy. The Museum of Arts and Sciences is a collection of museums including the Klancke Environmental Complex and the Cuban Museum. The Southeast Museum of Photography and the Halifax Historical Museum are also worth a mention. The non-profit Daytona Beach Symphony Society also hosts sponsored performances by US and international orchestras, opera and dance companies each season at the Peabody Auditorium.

Daytona Beach

We actually only drove through the city past the beach. We stayed in New Smyrna Beach at a friend’s beach house which sat right on the beach looking out over the Atlantic Ocean. We spent the evening sat on the veranda, star gazing and looking for crabs on the beach. New Smyrna Beach is well known for water sports, including swimming, scuba diving, kitesurfing and surfing. Water enthusiasts should beware though, New Smyrna Beach is known as the “shark bite capital of the world”!

New Smyrna Beach House

The Kennedy Space Centre

The next stop on our road trip was the infamous Kennedy Space Centre. It really doesn’t need much of an introduction. My American friend was very gracious in agreeing to visit the space centre. There is clearly some controversy amongst the American people, not only about the conspiracy theories surrounding the moon landing, but about whether the space program is worth the tens of billions of US dollars spent on it each year. However, space and space travel is a fascinating subject and the Kennedy Space Centre is an incredibly fascinating place, full of memorabilia, history and education.

I was particularly excited as we had timed our visit impeccably to coincide with the landing of a space shuttle. Even as we drove up to the space centre, people were lining up at the side of the road ready to watch it come in and to hear the sonic boom as it broke the earth’s atmosphere. Sadly, due to poor weather and too much cloud, the landing was diverted to California while we were walking around the space centre. But, I for one, still had a wonderful time exploring space shuttles, the walk around the Launch Complex and experiencing a simulated space launch.

A day ticket to the Space Centre costs $50 for adults and $40 for children.

Fort Lauderdale

We spent the night in Fort Lauderdale before heading further south to Miami and the Florida Keys. It was where my good friend did her law degree, so it was a city she knew well. Being only 23 miles from Miami, it is a good budget choice for somewhere to stay if you want to experience Miami without its price tag. We stayed at the Riverside Hotel which had great views over the city, even if they were stormy views! (We really didn’t luck out with the weather during this trip around Florida!) The Riverside Hotel is an art deco style hotel with a variety of room choices and well located on Las Olas Boulevard.

Stormy Skies in Fort Lauderdale

Being so close to Miami, Fort Lauderdale is popular tourist destination and welcomes around 12 million visitors a year. The city is sometimes referred to as “Fort Liquordale” because of its beaches, bars, nightclubs and history as a spring break location, though less so since the 80s after strict laws were passed to prevent the mayhem that occurred each year. The Riverwalk Arts and Entertainment District runs east to west along Las Olas Boulevard which is the place you need to be for dining and shopping. Despite it’s reputation, it’s a beautifully kept road, full of interesting art deco buildings and decoration and it runs right down to the beach. It’s also the cultural hub of the city with its cinemas, boutiques and art galleries.

Even if like us, you are passing through on your way to Miami or the Keys, after strolling down Las Olas Boulevard, find time to check out the Bonnet House Museum and Gardens, a typical Floridian plantation home and the Everglades Port.


It was a quick stop for us in Miami, but really interesting non the less. I cannot account for the nightlife that the city has to offer, but we all know of its reputation for glamour and glitz. Miami has many claims to fame. 2012 it was classified as an Alpha-World City, in 2010 it ranked 7th in the US in terms of finance, commerce, culture, entertainment, fashion and education. Forbes magazine ranked it America’s Cleanest City in 2008 and in 2009 it was named the richest city in the US. Miami is also nicknamed the “Capital of Latin America” being the second largest US city with a Spanish speaking majority.

As you drive into Miami, you are immediately treated to vibrant colours and art deco buildings of Ocean Drive, proudly standing at the sides of the roads. We headed straight for South Beach, a huge expanse of sand which clearly attracts all of the beautiful people. In reality, it is exactly how you imagine it to be from films and TV shows. Lots of buff, young, tanned men and lots of very beautiful, young, tanned women in bikinis.

Miami Beach

The volleyball courts are there, the water is clear and blue and the expensive yachts pass you by around the coastline. Sadly, for us, we found Miami to be the kind of city that makes you feel very out of place if you’re not rich and glamourous, but it was a wonderful place to enjoy a lunch by the ocean in glorious sunshine (at last) and watch the rich and famous pass you by without a glance!

The Florida Keys

The drive into the Keys from Miami is amazing in itself. From leaving the sky scraping condo towers of Miami, through the harbours of multi-million pound yachts, to the windy road that crosses over a myriad of sandy islands as you watch the sun set over the vista, everywhere you look is a treat for the eyes. We were headed for Key West, 166 miles from Miami. If you drive down, you pass over most of the Keys that Florida has to offer. I could name all of them, but I will just stick with my favourites. You start on Key Largo (a good one for a musician), Long Key (speaks for itself), Duck Key (quack quack), Fat Deer Key (no idea where that name came from), over the seven mile bridge from Boot Key to Big Pine Key, over the coral cay archipelago to Boca Chica Key and finally into Key West.

Florida Keys

It isn’t necessary to tell you that the Keys are one of the most popular tourist destinations in the US. Even Florida residents travel down to Key West to escape the rain as the weather is notoriously always beautiful, sunny and hot in Key West. It is almost as though you are visiting another country, the “Conch Republic”! Of course this is not really the case, but it is certainly an interesting draw to the Keys.

In 1982, the United States Border patrol set up a roadblock and inspection point on the road which joins the Florida Keys with the mainland. It caused so much disruption to local life and tourism, that the Keys decided (tongue in cheek) to declare themselves an independent state on the 23rd of April 1982. In the eyes of the council, since the US government had set up the equivalent of a border station as if they were a foreign nation, they might as well become one. As many of the local citizens were referred to as Conchs, the nation took the name of the Conch Republic. As part of the protest, Mayor Wardlow was proclaimed Prime Minister of the Republic and immediately declared war against the US, but quickly surrendered after one minute and applied for one billion dollars in foreign aid. It certainly got the message across and the roadblock was soon removed.

Key West

We stayed at the Orchid Key Inn which was lovely, well located at the end of the main strip, close enough to all the action but far enough away for a quiet stay, with a beautiful outdoor pool to boot. Apart from enjoying the many bars and restaurants that Key West has to offer as well as its world famous sunsets, there are a whole array of things worth doing during your stay there. Key West is home to Key Lime Pie and there are many places to enjoy this tart dessert. Try the Key Lime Pie Factory for a new twist on the pie, or Pepe’s Café which boasts itself as the oldest eating house in Key West, but for the best Key Lime Pie, head to Kermit’s Key West Key Lime Shoppe which has two shops in Key West.

Key Lime Pie

You may have heard of “Margaritaville”, the American casual dining and cocktail chain? Well, the Original Margaritaville is in Key West so if you’re a fan of margaritas, or indeed any kind of cocktail, this bar would be worth a visit. Other establishments worth frequenting are Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Willie T’s. Sloppy Joe’s is a historic American bar in Key West and you can thank their patron Ernest Hemingway for the name! Willie T’s has a real backpacker feel to it, as well as serving great food and cocktails, the entire bar is covered in bank notes from around the world with messages from the people who left them. It makes you wonder how much that bar is worth these days!

Willie T's, Key West

Key West has a really cute wheeled train which circles Key West and tours you all around the island to see the highlights which I highly recommend. Check out the Shipwreck Treasures Museum and step upon South Beach, the southernmost beach in the USA, next to the Southernmost Hotel in the USA and the famous buoy which tells you that you are stood at the southernmost point in the Continental United States of America, just 90 miles from Cuba.

Southernmost Point

Key West is incredibly LGBT friendly and you are never far away from some tongue in cheek fun. We very much enjoyed one of the many cabaret shows on offer in Key West, it was a good night out, despite getting picked on firstly for having a couple of ample assets (they were jealous) and then for being British. It was all in good humour though, and incredibly entertaining.

Key West Cabaret

If you happen to find yourselves in Key West, make sure you visit the El Simony Restaurant, known to be one of the best places in the US to get Cuban food. It’s an experience in itself as you feel like you have been invited into somebody’s home, but the food is traditional and delicious and the closest you can get to Cuban food without being in Cuba! It’s difficult to find a bit of a walk from the main part of the town, but well worth the journey!

The Everglades